Warning: I’m a softie, and don’t proceed further if you don’t want to read about some feelings.
We were having a discussion earlier today about how we can’t believe it’s already been almost a whole month we have been in Nepal. It feels like we just arrived, yet come this time tomorrow we will board the plane to Thailand.
I would call the feeling bittersweet. We came here just a couple of newbies on the block, and fast-forwarding one month, it seems we are leaving with a new family, set of friends, community, and a set of ideals we hope to learn to embody even after returning home. I’m truthfully a little sad to leave, but I’m also filled with gratitude for all the kindness and generosity shared with us. We are leaving with memories that will stick with us for the rest of our lives.
Tihar celebration with Sam (our host and new friend) and his family.
After we arrived at the airport, we made our way to our Airbnb in Patan just south of Kathmandu. We were immediately welcomed into the Shakya home, and we planned to stay for three nights before heading out for a trek somewhere in the Himalayas. Little did we know, we’d end up staying here essentially half of our time in Nepal!
We spent a good chunk of our first day recovering from some serious jetlag and lack of sleep. However, we managed to garner the energy to walk to the Patan Durbar Square which is UNESCO heritage site filled with historic Newari architecture. The square consists of multiple beautiful outdoor temples originally constructed between the 14th and 18th centuries and a main palace (now museum) which formerly was occupied by Malla kings. It was here we found a really neat collection of historical pieces which explain some of the area’s history and culture.
We also got to see a rather impressive photo collection from a French photographer named Michelle that we’d later include in our described gained community. Haha (Edit: Thanks for helping plot our travels to the Lower Mustang area and taking us on an adventure of Thamel).
As we toured around the museum, there was a band setting up that was putting out some pretty sweet sounds. We decided to stick around for the show, and we came to find out they were a very well known folk band of Nepal called Kutumba. Only playing traditional instruments of Nepal, they rocked the courtyard.
The next few days, we explored a few really cool temples and stupas around Patan. We also discovered our favorite coffee spot which was right across the street from Sam’s place. Yaksha Coffee was owned by our soon to be new friend, Sajan (or Sir John). This building was Sam’s family home before moving buildings, and it even had a courtyard that was 300 years old!
Another awesome surprise while in Patan was that we got to meet up with a fellow Okie and Hilldale High School alum, Jenny Blumenberg. Talk about one cool chick. Ten years may have flown by, and yet it didn’t seem like it at all. Glad we got to catch her before she returned to the States after living in Kathmandu for 3 years.
Days passed, and it seemed we couldn’t help but just really enjoy the people we met. For example, we met Milan while staying in another part of town. Milan is an awesome cook, and he cooked some seriously tasty curry for us while we were there. We also enjoyed some good convo with him, and we fully expect Milan to become the next I.T. wizard of Nepal. Thanks again, Milan, and please come visit us in the U.S.
Timing appeared to work out because one of the biggest festivals of the year was about to start called Tihar. Tihar is celebrated for roughly 5 days with different themed celebrations for each of the days. Sam’s family kindly offered to include us in their celebrations, and this ended up being definitely one of the coolest things we’ve done while traveling. Every home puts up Christmas lights everywhere, and marigolds are strung from doorways of homes, businesses, and other public places. Large sand mandala art is temporarily installed around town in open spaces, while smaller versions are installed in front of the homes, including candles, flowers, and other items.
The first celebration we observed with them was the second day which recognizes dogs as protectors of the household. We were able to celebrate Miss Enyo with treats, a garland made of marigolds, and of course, extra pets!! After we celebrated, we walked around Patan to look at all the lights with Sam Jam (Sam you have a nickname, sorry). Haha. The streets made you feel like it was Christmas but with lights adorning beautiful buildings and temples instead of a houses. Nepalese people mean business with the decorations, and we are big fans.
We also celebrated the next to last day with the family which focuses on celebration of the physical self and health. Sam’s family and we made mandala art, and we were offered puja blessings by his grandmother. We also ate some really tasty food prepared by his mother and sister. It was a really cool experience. We also learned I should practice sitting cross-legged on the floor. Haha. Thanks for letting me use the back support in the meantime though! : P
(Shakya family) 🙂
I’m jumping around here, but I’m trying to cover my bases. Being inspired by the music Kutumba played at the beginning of the trip, I decided I wanted to buy and learn how to play a sarangi. This is a traditional Nepalese instrument which is hollow and has 4 strings. You use a bow to play, much like that of a violin. One interesting thing is you don’t press on the strings to produce a sound. Instead you play on the side of your fingernail (kinda weird, but I like it).
(Kiran and me with my new sarangi)
We met Kiran who played for Kutumba, and he heads a center called Project Sarangi. Here all the instruments are handmade, and he offers lessons to help preserve traditional Nepalese music culture. After Kiran helped me find my own sarangi, Morgan and I hung out and talked with Kiran and his fiancée for hours. They’re awesome folks, and we wish them all the best! (Edit: we got to attend the Jamarko Jatra Festival organized by Kiran and his team which allowed musicians from different villages of Nepal to showcase regional traditional music and instruments. It was a great event, and I fully advise folks to go next year).
Other things to note:
1) We got to try roti and curry (Nepalese breakfast food) with Sam, and he and his mom showed us around the school where she works. We got to see the kids recite their morning prayers, and we got to tour the classrooms.
(Roti curry)
(Brownie the dog. We became best buds.)
2) We managed to get up before dawn and go see the early morning prayers at the temple that was built by Sam’s family. This has been here for many generations of his family, and the family takes turns protecting and maintaining the temple for a month at a time. This was very cool.
3) We finally saw yaks in person.
4) Do not underestimate suggested arrival time at the airport. Three hours before departure, four hours if you can. Lol.
Overall, this place will always be special to us. The Nepalese culture is something I believe we would all benefit from experiencing. My longterm dream of coming to Nepal was so fulfilling, and I already look forward to returning someday.
Thank you, and Namaste.
Morgan and Jaime's Wanderings 